Sewing Roadblock

I attempted my first hem this morning. It turned out very neatly. The only thing that I can’t figure out is how to stitch so that it only shows on one side of the fabric.

My Hem (outside of pants)

Professional Hem (outside of pants)

On the hems of my dress pants I find a zigzag stitch which is probably their to keep the garment from unraveling. I was able to achieve this zigzag stitch. But the stitch that holds the hem up is only visible from the inside of the pants and not the outside. I wasn’t able to create a hem that did not show on the outside of the pant. Mine has the black thread stitch marks across the bottom. This is fine on the pants that I experimented with, they were from Chadwicks so it was o.k. to experiment with.

I don’t want the stitch to show through on my more expensive suits since they did not originally come with a stitch across the bottom. I may just do the zigzag stitch to bind the bottom but them hand sew the hem.

Professional Hem (inside of pants)

My hem inside pants

I know I have some learning to do. I have only had my machine for 10 days, but I am anxious to learn all that I can. What am I missing?


  1. Bethany says

    If you’d like to use your machine to do your hemming, the blind hem is definately the way to go for your more expensive slacks. The blind hem is designed to sew most of the stitching on the turned in part of the hem, making very small stitches on the outside that won’t show as much and will tack the hem in place. As was said, the most difficult part of using the blind hem stitch is understanding the correct way to fold the fabric.

    There is a lot to be said for a hand sewn hem as well though, especially if you’d like to have quiet handwork to do during famaily time. Hand sewn hems and other similar details are a mark of quality in very expensive suits and other tailored garments as well.

    Good luck with your hemming! I hope you achieve the look you’d like.


  2. Joyce says

    Yes, I hope you can find instructions for a blind hem in your manual.

    Or can you call your store or go in and ask?

    It looks like this: ___/\___/\___
    About 3 straight and then a bite over, 3 straight and a bite over….

    There is a process of folding back your fabric correctly to make the stitches land in the right places.

    Trust me – when you figure this out, you’ll love it!

    Keep us posted!


  3. Katrina says

    Wow, you got me on that one. I’ve have yet to do that myself. But I have heard of the ‘blind hem’ that your commenter Stella mentioned. And it should discuss it in your sewing manual. Good luck!


  4. Kacie says

    I don’t know a thing about sewing.

    But, I was going to suggest using a darker color thread to match better. Might not make it invisible, but it would be less noticeable.


  5. Happy in the Home says

    Hi Hadias,

    Look in your stitching guide for “blind hem”. There should be instructions on how to do it. You will want to practice on scrap fabric because it is tricky. (I have to practice every time I do it because I can’t quite remember how. It always takes me a couple of time to get it, too.) It’s really just a matter of dialing the right stitch and then folding the hem just right. It will look wrong when you are doing it, but when you unfold it it will be great!

    Once you figure it out you’ll want to rip the seam out of your pants, because the blind hem does look very nice.

    If your booklet doesn’t have good instructions, try a google search for blind hem.

    Good luck!



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